Perfumery Formulations
The following sequences in the construction of a perfume
should be following by a perfume manufacturer:
- Body
- Modifiers
- Fixatives
- Top notes
- Polishing-off of the perfume oil
The fixative constitutes upto 30% of the perfume. There are
four kinds of fixatives.
The Arbitrary
Fixers
These are odorless substances which lend a particular note to the
perfumer throughout all stages of evaporation, but which do not influence
significantly the evaporation of the other perfume material in the compound.
The Real
Fixers
These substance help in retarding the evaporation of the other
materials e.g. by adsorption, because of the high molecular structurer.
The exalting
Fixers
These materials act as odour carriers and often as synergists,
improving and fortifying transportation of the vapours of the other perfume
materials.
So-called
Fixers
More or less odourless, crystallized or viscous, or just high-boiling
materials, their odour, if any plays a minor role, then action being merely stabilizing
by paralyzing the odour of the low boiling materials. In a way they steal effect from the perfume,
but they also conceal minor errors, therefore that an imperfect perfume, but
seem quite balanced, when such materials are added.
From a perfumer`s point of view such additions represent a direct loss
of fragrance effect and thereby indirectly an economic loss.
The fixation process can be divided into the following three stages:
- Prefixation: complete deodorization of the solvent.
- Blending: the addition of modifying fixators during manufacturer.
- Final fixation: the admixture of such additional substances as will produce the desired tenacity and distinctiveness, without changing the basic odour.
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